Bisht by Mokhtar Chahine
Article written by Rima Al- Mukhtar
A bisht is a traditional Arabian long cloak men wear over their thobes. This cloak is usually made of wool and ranges in color from white, beige, and cream to the darker shades of brown, grey and black. The word bisht is derived from Persian — to go on one’s back. Originally
the bisht was worn in winter by Bedouins. Now it’s only worn for
special occasions like weddings, festivals, graduations and Eid.
The
bisht has been the choice of formal wear for politicians, religious
scholars and high-ranking individuals in Arabian Gulf countries, Iraq
and countries north of Saudi Arabia. This traditional flowing cloak is
meant to distinguish those who wear it. People say no cloth can provide
the distinction of a hand-tailored bisht. This is why the art of bisht
tailoring is a skill handed down from generation to generation.
Abu
Salem, a Saudi tailor from Al-Ahsa, said, “Bishts were first tailored in
Persia. Saudis were introduced to them when bisht vendors came here for
Haj or Umra.”
Al-Ahsa area in the Eastern Province has been home to
the best bisht tailors for over 200 years and leading producers in the
Gulf countries since the 1940.
Some families in Al-Ahsa inherited
their forefather’s skill and continue to make bishts in their family
name. You can find a bisht called the Al-Qattan, Al-Kharas, Al-Mahdi or
the Al-Bagli.
Three types of embroidery are used in making the bisht:
gold stitch, silver stitch and silk stitch. The thread is called zari
and gold and silver are very common. “Black bishts with gold stitching
is the most popular, after cream and white,” said Abu Salem. “In the
early 90s new colors were introduced to the bisht market. Blue, grey and
maroon are mostly worn by the younger generation. The older generation
sticks to the traditional black, brown and cream,” he added.
Prices
vary from SR 100 all the way up to SR 20,000 depending on the fabric,
stitching, color and style. The most expensive, the Royal bisht is
specially tailored for princes, politicians and the weathy. “These
people usually choose black, honey, beige and cream for their bishts,”
said Abu Salem. “They are always handmade and use gold or silver thread
and sometimes a combination of both,” he added.
Abu Salem said,
“There are two kinds of zari, the genuine which is silk or cotton yarn
covered with pure gold or silver, and the imitation where the yarn is
covered with silver electroplated copper wire. Each tailor has his own
trademark zari design.”
There are three main bisht designs, the Darbeyah, Mekasar and the Tarkeeb.
Darbeyah
is handmade with genuine zari embroidery and traditional patterns and
the style is square and loose. Mekasar also known as Gasbi, has silk
embroidery along the edge of the fabric.
“Tarkeeb means fitting and it comes with a Darbeyah design with gold zari embroidery on tailored bisht fabric,” said Abu Salem.
Until
the invention of the sewing machine the original bisht was hand sewn.
“These days most bishts are machine-made but some people prefer a
handmade one for their finer detail,” he said.
Abu Salem said,
“Tailoring Hasawi bishts is an art that requires accuracy and skill. The
gold embroidery requires patience and takes many hours. The length of
time depends on the style and design. Hand-making one of these bishts
could take from 80 to 120 hours and four tailors, each with one specific
task.”
The Hasawi, a special of Al-Ahsa, is the most expensive using
camel or lama hair or goat wool with gold embroidery on the collar and
sleeves.
Traditionally, the bisht has two sleeves but it can be worn
with only one arm through the sleeve and the other wrapped around
loosely and tucked into the side.
Source:
http://www.arabnews.com/fashion/traditional-modern-saudi-mans-bisht