When you ask a South African about Saudi Arabia especially a South African of Isamic faith, the first thought that comes to mind is the two holy cities of the Islamic world, namely Makkah and Medina. Most westerners perceive Saudi Arabia quite differently. I had a nurse from New Zealand who told me that prior to her coming to the Kingdom she was under the impression that Saudi Arabia was a place where nomadic people lived and used camels to carry out their daily chores and activities. As she spoke to me with bouts of laughter in between she admitted that she was quite amazed at the magnitude of the different cities and the rich culture the country had to offer. Mind you there are still many people out there many of whom I met or know on a personal level who are under the impression that South Africans reside in wooden, hut type homes with wild animals prowling near by. It’s quite hilarious when I get asked these questions but I guess if you havn’t experienced a country first hand you would never know what its really like living there.
So just over a month after arriving in the Kingdom, my room mate and I decided we should join the social club travel group that was heading to Madain Saleh over the Christmas weekend. The hospital I work for is very much state of the art, offering staff members numerous social activities on a daily basis. The employee social club’s responsibility is to simply keep all staff members and their dependents entertained. They are constantly arranging local as well as international trips for employees at a minimal cost. After completing the application forms and paying the fee we were all ready, get set, GO!!!
Visiting Madain Salah and the town of Al-Ula requires a permit. Special permission needs to be sought from the government and all passengers need to be police escorted throughout the trip. Rumour has it that many years ago a group of French tourists were driving in the region of Al ula and Madain Saleh. On the way they had a breakdown and whilst venturing in the desert to look for assistance they were abducted and murdered. I don’t know how true this story is but this is what I heard from the local people in the area.
We left for our weekend trip at 4pm Wednesday afternoon departing from the hospital bus stop and arriving at the airport at approximately 4.45pm, in time to board the 6pm flight to the beautiful city of Medinatul Munawwara. Flying time is approximately one hour. Having landed in Medina, we were received at the airport by two police escort vehicles. Heading north, we traveled across the Arabian desert, a long four hour drive.
The journey was uneventful with one stop for coffee and toilet break with occasional road blocks by the local officers. Throughout our journey, all our documentation was kept by our friendly Saudi guide Mr. Faris who accompanied us. Whenever we were stopped by local authorities, he would get down from the bus, chit-chatted with the officers and off we continued again. Oops I forgot to tell you that the most delicious kanafa I have ever eaten was from a small little take away restaurant we stopped at in a town called Khyber.
According to information acquired through the internet,"Khyber" means a fort, and the place was so named because it consisted of a series of forts. There were six or seven forts, and each fort was occupied by a different section of the Jews. It was an oasis in the desert, and was conspicuous for its fields and groves of date palms. It was an important market as well. After their expulsion from Madina, most of the Jews of Banu Qainuqa and Banu Nadir took refuge in Khyber. In the Battle of the Ditch, the Jews of Khyber had helped the Quraish. When after the Battle of the Ditch, the Jews of Banu Quraizah were executed and the Jews of Khyber vowed vengeance, and they planned an invasion of Madina on a large scale. They were seeking an alliance with the Quraish. In the meantime by the treaty of Hudaibiya, the Quraish had made a truce with the Muslims and were no longer free to join the Jews in an attack on Madina. That was the first advantage that accrued to the Muslims as a result of the treaty of Hudaibiya. After the neutralization of the Quraish, in any conflict between the Muslims and the Jews, the initiative now came to lie with the Muslims. Taking full advantage of this favorable situation, immediately on return from Makkah after signing the Hudaibiya pact, the Holy Prophet led a Muslim force to Khyber.The story of Khyber is long and intense and so I will refer you to a link for more details. However, I would like to point out to you that until today the fort of Khyber still stands although visits there are not encouraged by the Saudi government due to ongoing archaeological work by various archaeologists from around the globe and also to prevent certain Islamic sects from committing bid3a (innovations) at this site.
We arrived at the Arac Hotel Al Ula around midnight. This hotel is situated in the town of Al-Ula surrounded by picturesque mountains that are so different in texture and composition. I am yet to see mountains like these any where else in the world. After settling in we had a small bite and retired to bed. The next morning after having a sumptuous intercontinental breakfast prepared by the two jovial and friendly Indian chefs,we started our memorable tour of the ancient cities of Al Ula and Madain Saleh. We were joined by other tour groups from other parts of the world like Canada, France and some local Saudis hailing from other parts of the Kingdom. Before we continue let me give you some history on Madain Saleh (The city of Saleh) and Al Ula. Al Ula is situated northwest of Arabian Peninsular about 380 km North of Medina. It used to be an important trade centre for the old caravan route. From here trader routes branched into 2, the first led to Babylon passing through Taima and the second route led to Petra and Syria. Al Ula was controlled by four civilizations namely Didan, Labyan, Maeen and most famous the Nabateans. Started by the Didan in 160BC, and finally conquered by Nabateans in 9BC.
Madain Saleh is located approximately 20 kilometers from the town of Al Ula. As mentioned by wikipedia, according to the holy Quraan, by the 3rd millennium BCE, the site of Mada'in Saleh had already been settled by the tribe of Thamud.It is said that the tribe fell to idol worshipping; tyranny and oppression became prevalent.The Prophet Saleh, to whom the site's name of Mada'in Saleh is often attributed,called the Thamudis to repent.The Thamudis disregarded the warning and instead commanded Prophet Saleh to summon a pregnant she-camel from the back of a mountain. And so, a pregnant she-camel was sent to the people from the back of the mountain by Allah, as proof of Saleh's divine mission. However, only a minority heeded his words. The non-believers killed the sacred camel instead of caring for it as they were told, and its calf ran back to the mountain where it had come from, screaming. The Thamudis were given three days before their punishment was to take place, since they disbelieved they did not heed the warning.The prophet and the believers left the city, but the Thamudis were punished by Allah —their souls leaving their lifeless bodies in the midst of an earthquake and lightning blasts.
After that, Madain Saleh remained deserted and desolate for centuries until the Nabateans arrived. So who were the Nabateans? The Nabateans were a tremendous civilization. They were Arabs who came originally from the south of Arabian Peninsular in the first century AC. They inhabited Madain Saleh and made it their Southern Capital, while the Northern Capital was Petra. They built their tombs in the mountains and decorated it by adding various forms of engraving and aesthetic forms and shapes. Madain Saleh expanded rapidly and became powerful especially when the Nabateans started to control the ancient trade routes. The Romans were threatened by the Nabateans. Thus, they launched a war against the Nabateans in (106 AC) and succeeded in terminating them. Madain Saleh was deserted once again when the Romans went back to Al-Sham (Syria).It is worth mentioning that the Prophet Muhammed (saw) through his teachings and experiences had taught Muslims to avoid visiting places like Madain Saleh simply because God Almighty's wrath and punishment had fallen on such places.The Prophet (saw) said: "Do not pass through the dwelling place of those who wronged themselves without crying". Crying here means to reflect and ponder on the greatness of God Almighty and to understand the consequences and punishment involved if one violates or goes against the message of God.
For me Madain Saleh was like a book that suddenly came to life. Having read an in depth history of the place through a book called The Atlas of the Quraan, and then seeing the place in reality left me awestruck and fascinated. When the gates opened and we entered, my eyes immediately widened in wonder. The place was expansive! Highly reminiscent of the vast Karoo desert in South Africa- but painted by the colors of an ancient world gone by.
"We visited the Al-Khreimat. Approaching the tomb area was kind of mysterious and eerie. It consists of 53 tombs with diverse facades, some ornamented with two half balconies and others having a complete balcony. Combination of influences can be notified, Assyrian on top of the tombs, Egyptian carving at the base and Greek art was quite visible as well. We also saw some impressive tombs ornamented with large outstanding crowns and two winged animals with human heads. Tomb number 100 clearly showed the Nabatean style of sculpturing from rock. It is one of the most beautiful rock cemeteries that has a prominent crown and a two winged animal.I personally like the view of 'Qaser el-Bint' - Group of tombs, I think facing in the easterly direction. Behind it there is a Nabatean Temple engraved in rock. Called Al-Diwan, rectangular in shape, size 13m length x 10m width x 8 m height. Impressive hall with weird top. We continued our tour to several other tombs before going back to the hotel."
The next morning was Friday.
For a muslim this is the most important day of the week. Before performing the afternoon prayer, we visited the ruins of Al Ula Islamic City. It is located in the heart of Al Ula and dates back to 7th century after Hijra (Islamic Calendar - start from the migration of our Beloved Prophet Muhammad SAW to Medina from Mecca). " Archaeologists believe that this is one of the best three Islamic cities next to Fars in Morroco and Tuleitula in Spain. They are still marvelously standing and unique with its old mosques, houses, markets and walls. It was built by generations and the people had immigrated from it completely around 40 years ago."
Locally known as Al-Deerah or "the old town", it exhibits the distinctive patterns of Islamic cities in the past. The houses of the village were made of old stones taken from the nearby Al-Khureabah ruins. This is why many inscriptions, writings and ornamentations are found in the stones of these buildings.The Heritage Village in Al-Ula is a complete residential city from one connected urban mass that is sorted in a systematic way. It has more than 870 houses in two-story buildings linked together throughout a number of narrow semi-covered alleys or "Azigah". The village displays paved streets surrounded by a wall with no less than fourteen gates; and every gate was locked at night to defend it from intruders and foreign attacks. The buildings have many fascinating archaeological features. For example, they have no openings on the ground floor level for entrance into the streets. Openings were made only in the upper floors; and the roofs were made of palm tree trunks and reeds which were covered with layers of mud, afterwards.
"One attraction worth mentioning is the Solar Clock. Located south of the city with a pyramid-like construction. It was used to identify the four seasons of the year, especially winter by observing a piece of rock which is implanted into the ground in front of the pyramidal construction. The shadow of this solar clock shall reach this rock on the first day of winter, that is 21st December. The shadow of this solar clock will reach the rock again only the following year, at the same time and date. This clock is still successfully used and many tourists would come to witness this unique event. After that we visited Al- Hejaz Railway Station located in Hai Ak-Qitar (one of the important stations connecting Saudi and Syria - used to be), Jabal Al-Fil (Mount Elephant)- true enough it looks like a Mammoth to me smacked in the Arabian desert." Near the site of the elephant rock structure we were approached by a resident of Al Ula who was in the area to visit his camels. He was a middle aged Saudi gentleman who made his way from Al Ula city in a black GMC vehicle. He invited us to his tent and offered us Arabic coffee (Qahwa) and dates. He enlightened us more on the original inhabitants of the town. Whilst the Saudi government does not allow women to drive, I was very surprised to learn that his wife has been driving in the town for many years without any one objecting.
After lunch we left Al Ula for another long journey back to the Holy City of Medina. We then took a connecting flight back to Riyadh….Another memorable trip I would never forget!!!!!!
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